until all the scum has risen, as the boiling point is
when it comes to the surface, yet once having boiled, the scum is broken
up, and the soup is never so clear.

The meat must simmer slowly, _not boil_, for three hours before the
vegetables are added, then for a couple of hours more.

It is necessary to be very exact in the proportions of vegetables; but,
of course, after having weighed them for soups once or twice, you will
get to know about the size of a carrot, turnip, etc., that will weigh
six ounces. The exact weight is given until the eye is accustomed to it.

This soup strained, and boiled down to one half, becomes _consomme_.

CELERY CREAM is a most delicious and little-known white soup, and all
lovers of good things will thank me for introducing it.

Have some nice veal stock, or the water in which chickens have been
boiled, reduced till it is rich enough, will do, or some very rich
mutton broth, but either of the former are preferable; then put on a
half cup of rice in a pint of rich milk, and grate into it the white
part and root of two heads of celery. Let the rice milk cook very
slowly at the back of the stove, adding more milk before it gets at all
stiff; when tender enough to mash through a coarse sieve or fine
colander add it to the stock, which must have been strained and be quite
free from sediment, season with salt and a little _white_ pepper or
cayenne, boil all together gently a few minutes. It should look like
rich cream, and be strongly flavored with celery. Of course the quantity
of rice, milk, and celery must depend on the quantity of stock you have.
I have given the proportion for one quart, which, with the milk, etc.,
added, would make about three pints of soup.

CHAPTER X.

SAUCES.

TALLEYRAND said England was a country with twenty-four religions and
only one sauce. He might have said two sauces, and he would have been
literally right as regards both England and America. Everything is
served with brown sauce or white sauce. And how often the white sauce is
like bookbinder's paste, the brown, a bitter, tasteless brown mess!
Strictly speaking, perhaps, the French have but two sauces either,
_espagnole_, or brown sauce, and white sauce, which they call the mother
sauces; but what changes they ring on these mother sauces! The espagnole
once made, with no two meats is it served alike in flavor, and in this
matter of flavor the artist appears. In making brown sauce for any
purpo