s and a half; it will be reduced to about half, and
form a stiff jelly when cold; a glass of sherry, and squeeze of lemon,
or teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, makes this into a delicious aspic,
and should be added if to be eaten cold. The jelly must of course be
strained.

In roasting chickens, if you follow the rule for meat, that is, put no
water in the pan, but a piece of butter, and dredge a _very little_
flour over the chicken, you will have a nice brown glaze at the bottom
of the pan, provided it has been cooked in a _quick oven_; if in a cool
oven there will be nothing brown at all; but we will suppose the bird is
browned to a turn; pour your gravy from the giblets into the pan, take
off every bit of the glaze or osma-zone that adheres, and let it
dissolve, rubbing it with the back of the spoon; then, if you are likely
to have any chicken left cold, pour off a little gravy in a cup through
a fine strainer, leaving in your pan sufficient for the dinner; in this
mash up the liver till it is a smooth paste which thickens the gravy,
and serve. Some object to liver, therefore the use of it is a matter of
taste. If you dress the chickens English fashion, you will _need_ the
liver and gizzard to tuck under the wings; in this case, stew only the
feet and throat, using a little meat of any kind, if you have it, to
take their place; but on no account fail to use the feet, as they are as
rich in jelly as calves' feet in proportion to their size.

The jelly laid aside will be enough to ornament and give relish to a
little dish of cold chicken, and changes it from a dry and commonplace
thing to a _recherche_ one. If two chickens are cooked it is more
economical than one; there is, then, double the amount of gravy,
generally sufficient, if you lay some very nice pieces of cold chicken
in a bowl, to pour over it and leave it enveloped in jelly; you still
then, if from dinner for two people, have perhaps joints enough to make
a dish of curry or fricassee, or any of the many ways in which cold
chicken may be used, for which see chapter on "_Warming Over_."

For small households large joints are to be avoided, but even a small
roast is a large joint when there are but two or three to eat it. For
this reason it is a good plan to buy such joints as divide well. A
sirloin of beef is better made into two fine dishes than into one roast,
and then warmed over twice. Every one knows that "_Filet de b[oe]uf
Chateaubriand_" is one of the