he roux;
and also, if desired, a piece of Montpellier butter. If there is no soup
of course you make it with a piece of glaze.

Brown flour is also a convenient thing to have ready; it is simply
cooking flour in the oven until it is a _pale_ brown; if it is allowed
to get dark it will be bitter, and, that it may brown evenly, it
requires to be laid on a large flat baking pan and stirred often. Useful
for thickening stews, hash, etc.

CHAPTER V.

LUNCHEON.

LUNCHEON is usually, in this country, either a forlorn meal of cold meat
or hash, or else a sort of early dinner, both of which are a mistake. If
it is veritably _luncheon_, and not early dinner, it should be as unlike
that later meal as possible for variety's sake, and, in any but very
small families, there are so many dishes more suitable for luncheon than
any other meal, that it is easy to have great variety with very little
trouble.

I wish it were more the fashion here to have many of the cold dishes
which are popular on the other side the Atlantic; and, in spite of the
fact that table prejudices are very difficult to get over, I will append
a few recipes in the hope that some lady, more progressive than
prejudiced, may give them a trial, convinced that their excellence,
appearance, and convenience will win them favor.

By having most dishes cold at luncheon, it makes it a distinct meal from
the hot breakfast and dinner. In summer, the cold food and a salad is
especially refreshing; in winter, a nice hot soup or puree--thick soup
is preferable at luncheon to clear, which is well fitted to precede a
heavy meal--and some savory _entree_ are very desirable, while cold
raised pie, galantine, jellied fish, and potted meats may ever, at that
season, find their appropriate place on the luncheon table. The
potatoes, which are the only vegetable introduced at strict lunch,
should be prepared in some fancy manner, as croquettes, mashed and
browned, _a la maitre d'hotel_, or in snow. The latter mode is pretty
and novel; I will, therefore, include it in my recipes for luncheon
dishes. Omelets, too, are excellent at luncheon.

In these remarks I am thinking especially of large families, whose
luncheon table might be provided with a dish of galantine, one of
collared fish, and a meat pie, besides the steak, cutlets, or
warmed-over meat, without anything going to waste. In winter most cold
jellied articles will keep a fortnight, and in summer three or four
day