pound of butter and four eggs, beat well, then add
another egg, beat again, and add another, and so on until seven have
been used; the paste must be soft, but not spread; if too firm, add
another egg. Now mix this paste with the sponge thoroughly, beating
until the paste leaves the sides of the bowl, then put it in a crock and
cover; let it stand four hours in a warm place, then turn it out on a
board, _spread it and double it four times_, return it to the crock, and
let it rise again two hours; repeat the former process of doubling and
spreading, and put it in a very cold place for two hours, or until you
want to use it. Mold in any form you like, but the true brioche is two
pieces, one as large again as the other; form the large one into a ball,
make a deep depression in the center, on which place the smaller ball,
pressing it gently in; cut two or three gashes round it with a sharp
knife, and bake a beautiful golden brown. These brioche are such a
luxury, and so sure to come out right, that the trouble of making them
is well worth the taking, and for another reason: every one knows the
great difficulty of making puff paste in summer, and a short paste is
never handsome; but take a piece of brioche paste, roll it out thin,
dredge with flour, fold and roll again, then use as you would puff
paste; if for sweet pastry, a little powdered sugar may be sprinkled
through it instead of dredging with flour. This makes a very handsome
and delicious crust. Or, another use to which it may be put is to roll
it out, cut it in rounds, lay on them mince-meat, orange marmalade, jam,
or merely sprinkle with currants, chopped citron, and spices, fold,
press the edges, and bake.

Before quitting the subject of breads I must introduce a novelty which I
will call "soufflee bread." It is quickly made, possible even when the
fire is poor, and so delicious that I know you will thank me for making
you acquainted with it.

Use two or three eggs according to size you wish, and to each egg a
tablespoonful of flour. Mix the yolks with the flour and with them a
dessert-spoonful of butter melted, and enough milk to make a very
_thick_ batter, work, add a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of sugar,
work till quite smooth, then add the whites of the eggs in a firm froth,
stir them in gently, and add a _quarter_ teaspoonful of soda and half a
one of cream of tartar. Have ready an iron frying-pan (or an earthen one
that will stand heat is better), made