t very near as cheap, and much more agreeable
than any other.

The distance between this place and Genoa, when measured on the carte,
does not exceed ninety miles: but the people of the felucas insist upon
its being one hundred and twenty. If they creep along shore round the
bottoms of all the bays, this computation may be true: but, except when
the sea is rough, they stretch directly from one head-land to another,
and even when the wind is contrary, provided the gale is not fresh,
they perform the voyage in two days and a half, by dint of rowing: when
the wind is favourable, they will sail it easily in fourteen hours.

A man who has nothing but expedition in view, may go with the courier,
who has always a light boat well manned, and will be glad to
accommodate a traveller for a reasonable gratification. I know an
English gentleman who always travels with the courier in Italy, both by
sea and land. In posting by land, he is always sure of having part of a
good calash, and the best horses that can be found; and as the expence
of both is defrayed by the public, it costs him nothing but a present
to his companion, which does not amount to one fourth part of the
expence he would incur by travelling alone. These opportunities may be
had every week in all the towns of Italy.

For my own part, I hired a gondola from hence to Genoa. This is a boat
smaller than a feluca, rowed by four men, and steered by the patron;
but the price was nine zequines, rather more than I should have payed
for a feluca of ten oars. I was assured that being very light, it would
make great way; and the master was particularly recommended to me, as
an honest man and an able mariner. I was accompanied in this voyage by
my wife and Miss C--, together with one Mr. R--, a native of Nice, whom
I treated with the jaunt, in hopes that as he was acquainted with the
customs of the country, and the different ways of travelling in it, he
would save us much trouble, and some expence: but I was much
disappointed. Some persons at Nice offered to lay wagers that he would
return by himself from Italy; but they were also disappointed.

We embarked in the beginning of September, attended by one servant. The
heats, which render travelling dangerous in Italy, begin to abate at
this season. The weather was extremely agreeable; and if I had
postponed my voyage a little longer, I foresaw that I should not be
able to return before winter: in which case I might have found th