t we were obliged to pass other four and twenty hours in this
comfortable situation. Luckily Mr. R-- found two acquaintances in the
place; one a Franciscan monk, a jolly fellow; and the other a maestro
di capella, who sent a spinnet to the inn, and entertained us agreeably
with his voice and performance, in both of which accomplishments he
excelled. The padre was very good humoured, and favoured us with a
letter of recommendation to a friend of his, a professor in the
university of Pisa. You would laugh to see the hyperbolical terms in
which he mentioned your humble servant; but Italy is the native country
of hyperbole.

St. Remo is a pretty considerable town, well-built upon the declivity
of a gently rising hill, and has a harbour capable of receiving small
vessels, a good number of which are built upon the beach: but ships of
any burden are obliged to anchor in the bay, which is far from being
secure. The people of St. Remo form a small republic, which is subject
to Genoa.

They enjoyed particular privileges, till the year 1753, when in
consequence of a new gabelle upon salt, they revolted: but this effort
in behalf of liberty did not succeed. They were soon reduced by the
Genoese, who deprived them of all their privileges, and built a fort by
the sea-side, which serves the double purpose of defending the harbour
and over-awing the town. The garrison at present does not exceed two
hundred men. The inhabitants are said to have lately sent a deputation
to Ratisbon, to crave the protection of the diet of the empire. There
is very little plain ground in this neighbourhood; but the hills are
covered with oranges, lemons, pomegranates, and olives, which produce a
considerable traffic in fine fruit and excellent oil. The women of St.
Remo are much more handsome and better tempered than those of Provence.
They have in general good eyes, with open ingenuous countenances. Their
dress, though remarkable, I cannot describe: but upon the whole, they
put me in mind of some portraits I have seen, representing the females
of Georgia and Mingrelia.

On the third day, the wind being abated, though still unfavourable, we
reimbarked and rowed along shore, passing by Porto-mauricio, and
Oneglia; then turning the promontory called Capo di Melle, we proceeded
by Albenga, Finale, and many other places of inferior note.
Portomauricio is seated on a rock washed by the sea, but indifferently
fortified, with an inconsiderable harbour, which n