to the
shipping. Within the mole there is a smaller harbour or wet dock,
called Darsena, for the gallies of the republic. We passed through a
considerable number of ships and vessels lying at anchor, and landing
at the water-gate, repaired to an inn called La Croix de Malthe in the
neighbourhood of the harbour. Here we met with such good entertainment
as prepossessed us in favour of the interior parts of Italy, and
contributed with other motives to detain us some days in this city. But
I have detained you so long, that I believe you wish I may proceed no
farther; and therefore I take my leave for the present, being very
sincerely-- Yours.

LETTER XXVI

NICE, January 15, 1765.

DEAR SIR,--It is not without reason that Genoa is called La superba.
The city itself is very stately; and the nobles are very proud. Some
few of them may be proud of their wealth: but, in general, their
fortunes are very small. My friend Mr. R-- assured me that many Genoese
noblemen had fortunes of half a million of livres per annum: but the
truth is, the whole revenue of the state does not exceed this sum; and
the livre of Genoa is but about nine pence sterling. There are about
half a dozen of their nobles who have ten thousand a year: but the
majority have not above a twentieth part of that sum. They live with
great parsimony in their families; and wear nothing but black in
public; so that their expences are but small. If a Genoese nobleman
gives an entertainment once a quarter, he is said to live upon the
fragments all the rest of the year. I was told that one of them lately
treated his friends, and left the entertainment to the care of his son,
who ordered a dish of fish that cost a zechine, which is equal to about
ten shillings sterling. The old gentleman no sooner saw it appear on
the table, than unable to suppress his concern, he burst into tears,
and exclaimed, Ah Figliuolo indegno! Siamo in Rovina! Siamo in
precipizio! Ah, Prodigal! ruined! undone!

I think the pride or ostentation of the Italians in general takes a
more laudable turn than that of other nations. A Frenchman lays out his
whole revenue upon tawdry suits of cloaths, or in furnishing a
magnificent repas of fifty or a hundred dishes, one half of which are
not eatable nor intended to be eaten. His wardrobe goes to the fripier;
his dishes to the dogs, and himself to the devil, and after his decease
no vestige of him remains. A Genoese, on the other hand, keeps himself