building range upon range of
golden mountains above the black, Alp-like crags of the Olympics.
Then, entering a small boat, we rowed far out northward into the
Sound. Overhead, and about us, the scenes of the great panorama were
swiftly shifted. The western sky became a conflagration. Twilight
settled upon the bay. The lights of the distant town came out, one by
one, and those of the big smelter, near by, grew brilliant. No Turner
ever dreamed so glorious a composition of sunlight and shade. But we
were held by one vision.

[Illustration {p.019}: View from Electron, showing west side of the
mountain, with a vast intervening country of forested ranges and deep
canyons.]

{p.021}
[Illustration: Nisqually Canyon.

... "Where the mountain wall
Is piled to heaven, and through the narrow rift
Of the vast rocks, against whose rugged feet
Beats the mad torrent with perpetual roar:
Where noonday is as twilight, and the wind
Comes burdened with the everlasting moan
Of forests and far-off waterfalls."--Whittier.]

Yonder, in the southeast, towering above the lower shadows of harbor
and hills, rose a vast pyramid of soft flame. The setting sun had
thrown a mantle of rose pink over the ice of the glaciers and the
great cleavers of rock which buttress the mighty dome. The rounded
summit was warm with beautiful orange light. Soon the colors upon its
slope changed to deeper reds, and then to amethyst, and {p.023}
violet, and pearl gray. The sun-forsaken ranges below fell away to
dark neutral tints. But the fires upon the crest burned on, deepening
from gold to burnished copper, a colossal beacon flaming high against
the sunset purple of the eastern skies. Finally, even this great light
paled to a ghostly white, as the supporting foundation of mountain
ridges dropped into the darkness of the long northern twilight, until
the snowy summit seemed no longer a part of earth, but a veil of
uncanny mist, caught up by the winds from the Pacific and floating far
above the black sky-line of the solid Cascades, that

* * * heaven-sustaining bulwark, reared
Between the East and West.

[Illustration {p.022}: Copyright, 1900, By A. H. Waite. North Peak,
or Liberty Cap, and South Mowich Glacier in storm, seen from an
altitude of 6,000 feet, on ridge between South Mowich and Puyallup
Glaciers. The glacier, 2,000 feet below, is nearly half a mile wide.
Note the tremendous wall of ice in which it ends.]

[Illustration: Co