ing, and the cold was so
severe that our clothes froze stiff when turned away from the
heated jet. We passed a miserable night, freezing on one side and
in a hot steam-sulphur bath on the other.

In October of the same year, S. F. Emmons and A. D. Wilson, of the
Geological Survey, reached the snow-line by way of the Cowlitz valley
and glacier, and ascended the peak over the same route which Stevens
and Van Trump had discovered and which has since been the popular path
to Crater Peak. The Kautz route, by the cleaver between Kautz and
Nisqually glaciers, has recently been found {p.125} practicable,
though extremely difficult. In 1891 and again the next summer, Mr. Van
Trump made an ascent along the ridge dividing the Tahoma glaciers. In
1905, Raglan Glascock and Ernest Dudley, members of the Sierra Club
party visiting the Mountain, climbed the Kautz glacier, and finding
their way barred by ice cascades, reached the summit by a thrilling
rock climb over the cliff above the South Tahoma glacier. This
precipice (see p. 37) they found to be a series of rock terraces,
often testing the strength and nerve of the climbers. In _Sunset
Magazine_ for November, 1895, Mr. Glascock has told the story of their
struggle and reward.

[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By Asahel Curtis. Spray Falls, a
splendid scenic feature of the north side, where it drops more than
five hundred feet from the Spray Park table-land into the canyon of
North Mowich Glacier.]

Here the basalt terminated, and a red porous formation began,
which crumbled in the hand. This part of the cliff lay a little
out from the perpendicular, and there was apparently no way of
surmounting it. I looked at my watch. It was 4:15. In a flash the
whole situation came to me. It would be impossible to return and
cross the crevasses before dark. We could not stay where we were.
Already the icy wind cut to the bone.

"We must make it. There is no going back," I said to Dudley. I
gave him the ice ax, and started to the ascent of the remaining
cliff. I climbed six feet, and was helpless. I could not get
back, nor go forward. One of my feet swung loose, and I felt my
hands slipping. Then I noticed above me, about six or eight
inches to my right a sharp, projecting rock. It was here or
never. I gave a swing, and letting go my feet entirely, I reached
the rock. It held, and I was swinging by my