ires and Paradise. He may work up over
the lower glaciers, studying their crevasses, ice caves and flow. He
will want to ascend some of the tempting crags of the ragged Tatoosh,
for the panorama of ice-capped peaks and dark, forested ranges which
is there unfolded. After a week or two of such "trying-out," to
develop wind and harden muscle, he may even scale the great Mountain
itself under the safe lead of experienced guides. He may wander at
will over the vast platform left by a prehistoric explosion which
truncated the cone, and perhaps spend a night of sensational novelty
(and discomfort) in a big steam cave, under the snow, inside a dead
crater.

The south side has the advantage of offering the wildest alpine sport
in combination with a well-appointed hotel as a base of operations.
Hence the majority of visitors know only that side. Everybody should
know it, too, for there is not a nobler playground anywhere; but
should also know that it is by no means the only side to see.

One may, of course, work around from the Nisqually canyon and
Paradise, east or west, to the other glaciers and "parks." It is quite
practicable, if not easy, to make the trip eastward from Camp of the
Clouds, crossing Paradise, Stevens and Cowlitz glaciers, and thus to
reach the huge White glacier on the east side and Winthrop and Carbon
glaciers on the north. Every summer sees more and more visitors making
this wonderful journey.

But the usual way to reach the great north side, especially for
parties which carry camp equipment, is by a Northern Pacific train
over the Carbonado branch to Fairfax. This is on Carbon river, five
miles from the northwest corner of the National Park. Thence the
traveler will go by horse or afoot, over a safe mountain trail, to
Spray Park, the fascinating region between Carbon and North Mowich
{p.051} glaciers. Standing here, on such an eminence as Fay Peak or
Eagle Cliff, he may have views of the Mountain in its finest aspects
that will a thousand times repay the labor of attainment.

[Illustration: Government Road in the Forest Reserve.]

[Illustration: "Hanging Glacier," or ice fall, above Cowlitz Glacier.]

A visit to this less known but no less interesting side involves the
necessity of packing an outfit. But arrangements for horses and
packers are easily made, and each year an increasing number of parties
make Spray Park their headquarters, spending, if they are wise, at
least a week in this wide region