exhaustion. His body was found
on the rocks below by his comrades of the Mazama Club.

[Illustration: Copyright, 1897, By E. S. Curtis. P. B. Van Trump, on
his old campground, above Sluiskin Falls, where he and Gen. Stevens
camped in 1870.]

If one is going the popular route and is equal to so long and unbroken
a climb, he may start with his guide from Reese's before dawn, and be
on Columbia's Crest by 11 o'clock. But climbers frequently go up
Cowlitz Cleaver in the evening, and spend the night at Camp Muir (see
pp. 60 and 80). This ledge below Gibraltar gets its name from John
Muir, the famous mountaineer, who, on his ascent in 1888, suggested it
as a camping place because the presence of pumice indicated the
{p.116} absence of severe winds. It offers none of the conveniences
of a camp save a wind-break, and even in that respect no one has ever
suffered for want of fresh air. It is highly desirable that a cabin be
erected here for the convenience of climbers. Such shelters as the
Alpine clubs have built on the high shoulders of many peaks in
Switzerland are much needed, not only at Muir, but also on the Wedge,
as well as inside one of the craters, where, doubtless a way might be
found to utilize the residuary heat of the volcano for the comfort of
the climbers.

[Illustration: Lower Spray Park, with Mother Mountains beyond. One of
the most beautiful alpine vales in the great Spray Park region.]

[Illustration: Copyright, 1909, By J. Edward B. Greene.
John Muir, President of the Sierra Club and foremost of American
mountaineers

"His daily teachers had been woods and rills,
The silence that is in the starry sky,
The sleep that is among the lonely hills."]

Going to the summit by this route, the important thing is to pass
Gibraltar early, before the sun starts the daily shower of icicles and
rocks from the cliff over the narrow trail (see p. 83). This is the
most dangerous point, but no lives have been lost here. Everywhere, of
course, caution is needed, and strict obedience to the {p.117} guide.
Once up the steep flume caused by the melting of the ice where it
borders the rock (p. 85), the climber threads his way among the
crevasses and snow-mounds for nearly two miles, until the crater is
reached (pp. 86, 88, 89).

[Illustration: Coasting in Moraine Park in the August sunshine.]

The east-side route (p. 100) involves less danger, perhaps, but it is
a longer climb, with no resting places or wind-breaks