ures to any
great extent. The native Chinese split and scrape the plant stems,
steeping them in water. The common retting process used for flax is not
effective on account of the large amount of gummy matter, and although
easy to bleach it is difficult to dye in full bright shades without
injuring the luster of the fibers.

[Sidenote: Jute and Hemp]

Jute and hemp belong to the lower order of bast fibers. The fiber is
large and is unfit for any but the coarsest kind of fabrics. Jute is
mainly cultivated in Bengal. The fiber is separated from the plant by
retting, beating, etc.

[Illustration: JUTE GROWING IN LOUISIANA.

From Culture of Hemp and Jute, Report of U. S. Department of Agriculture.]

[Illustration: DRYING HEMP IN KENTUCKY

From "Culture of Hemp and Jute."]

[Sidenote: Olona]

Olona, the textile fiber of Hawaii, is found to have promising
qualities. This plant resembles ramie and belongs to the nettle family
also, but it is without the troublesome resin of the ramie. The fiber is
fine, light, strong, and durable.

The Philippines are rich in fiber producing plants. The manila hemp is
the most prominent, of which coarse cloth is woven, besides the valuable
cordage. The sisal hemp, pineapple, yucca, and a number of fiber plants
growing in the southern part of the United States are worthy of note.
These fiber industries are conducted in a rude way, the fiber being
cleaned by hand, except the pineapple.

SILK

The silk fiber is the most perfect as well as the most beautiful of all
fibers. It is nearly faultless, fine and continuous, often measuring
from 1000 to 4000 feet long, without a scale, joint, or a blemish,
though not of the same diameter or fineness throughout its entire
length, as it becomes finer as the interior of the cocoon is approached.
Silk differs from all other vegetable or animal fibers by being devoid
of all cellular structure.

[Sidenote: Where Produced]

Southern Europe leads in the silk worm culture--Italy, southern France,
and Turkey, with China and India. Several species of moths, natives of
India, China, and Japan, produce the wild silk. The most important of
the "wild silks" are the Tussah. Silk plush and the coarser varieties of
buff colored fabrics are made of this silk. While manufacturers do not
favor the wild silk, the coarse uneven weave and softness make it a
favorite with artists and it is being used for interior decoration as
well as for clothing.

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