or humour, that I was surprised how all the court could sit there
attentively for four hours together. No women are suffered to act on
the stage, and the men dressed like them, were such awkward figures,
they very much added to the ridicule of the spectacle. What
completed the diversion, was the excessive cold, which was so great,
I thought I should have died there. It is now the very extremity of
the winter here; the Danube is entirely frozen, and the weather not
to be supported without stoves and furs; but, however, the air so
clear, almost every body is well, and colds not half so common as in
England. I am persuaded there cannot be a purer air, nor more
wholesome, than that of Vienna. The plenty and excellence of all
sorts of provisions are greater here than in any place I ever was
before, and 'tis not very expensive to keep a splendid table. 'Tis
really a pleasure to pass through the markets, and see the abundance
of what we should think rarities, of fowls and venison, that are
daily brought in from Hungary and Bohemia. They want nothing but
shell-fish, and are so fond of oysters, that they have them sent from
Venice, and eat them very greedily, stink or not stink. Thus I obey
your commands, madam, in giving you an account of Vienna, though I
know you will not be satisfied with it. You chide me for my
laziness, in not telling you a thousand agreeable and surprising
things, that you say you are sure I have seen and heard. Upon my
Word, madam, 'tis my regard to truth, and not laziness, that I do not
entertain you with as many prodigies as other travellers use to
divert their readers with. I might easily pick up wonders in every
town I pass through, or tell you a long series of popish miracles;
but I cannot fancy, that there is any thing new in letting you know
that priests will lie, and the mob believe, all the world over. Then
as for news, that you are so inquisitive about, how can it be
entertaining to you (that don't know the people) that the prince
of ---- has forsaken the countess of ----? or that the prince such a
one, has an intrigue with the countess such a one? Would you have me
write novels like the countess of D'----? and is it not better to
tell you a plain truth, That I am, &c.

LET. XXI.

To THE COUNTESS OF ----.

_Vienna, Jan_. 16. O. S. 1717.

I AM now, dear sister, to take leave of you for a long time, and of
Vienna for ever; designing to-morrow, to