he and her
husband are entirely given up to devotion. He never looks upon any
other woman; and, what is much more extraordinary, touches
no bribes, notwithstanding the example of all his predecessors. He
is so scrupulous on this point, he would not accept Mr W----'s
present, till he had been assured over and over, that it was a
settled perquisite Of his place, at the entrance of every ambassador.
She entertained me with all kind of civility, till dinner came in,
which was served, one dish at a time, to a vast number, all finely
dressed after their manner, which I don't think so bad as you have
perhaps heard it represented. I am a very good judge of their
eating, having lived three weeks in the house of an _effendi_ at
Belgrade, who gave us very magnificent dinners, dressed by his own
cooks. The first week they pleased me extremely; but, I own, I then
began to grow weary of their table, and desired our own cook might
add a dish or two after our manner. But I attribute this to custom,
and am very much inclined to believe, that an Indian, who had never
tasted of either, would prefer their cookery to ours. Their sauces
are very high, all the roast very much done. They use a great deal
of very rich spice. The soup is served for the last dish; and they
have, at least, as great a variety of ragouts as we have. I was very
sorry I could not eat of as many as the good lady would have had me,
who was very earnest in serving me of every thing. The treat
concluded with coffee and perfumes, which is a high mark of respect;
two slaves kneeling _censed_ my hair, clothes, and handkerchief.
After this ceremony, she commanded her slaves to play and dance,
which they did with their guitars in their hands, and she excused to
me their want of skill, saying she took no care to accomplish them in
that art.

I RETURNED her thanks, and, soon after, took my leave. I was
conducted back in the same manner I entered, and would have gone
straight to my own house; but the Greek lady with me, earnestly
solicited me to visit the _kahya's_ lady, saying, he was the second
officer in the empire, and ought indeed to be looked upon as the
first, the grand vizier having only the name, while he exercised the
authority. I had found so little diversion in the vizier's _haram_,
that I had no mind to go into another. But her importunity prevailed
with me, and I am extremely glad I was so complaisant. All things
here were with quite another air than