chiefs the
same thing.
They dislike the idea of guilt being attached to them for having sold
many who have lost their lives on their way down to the sea-coast. We
had a long visit from Mtarika next day; he gave us meal, and meat of
wild hog, with a salad made of bean-leaves. A wretched Swaheli Arab,
ill with rheumatism, came for aid, and got a cloth. They all profess
to me to be buying ivory only.
_5th July, 1866._--We left for Mtende, who is the last chief before
we enter on a good eight days' march to Mataka's; we might have gone
to Kandulo's, who is near the Rovuma, and more to the north, but all
are so well supplied with everything by slave-traders that we have
difficulty in getting provisions at all. Mataka has plenty of all
kinds of food. On the way we passed the burnt bones of a person Avho
was accused of having eaten human flesh; he had been poisoned, or, as
they said, killed by poison (muave?), and then burned. His clothes
were hung, up on trees by the wayside as a warning to others. The
country was covered with scraggy forest, but so undulating that one
could often see all around from the crest of the waves. Great mountain
masses appear in the south and south-west. It feels cold, and the sky
is often overcast.
_6th July, 1866._--I took lunars yesterday, after which Mtende invited
us to eat at his house where he had provided a large mess of rice
porridge and bean-leaves as a relish. He says that many Arabs pass him
and many of them die in their journeys. He knows no deaf or dumb
person in the country. He says that he cuts the throats of all animals
to be eaten, and does not touch lion or hyaena.
_7th July, 1866._--We got men from Mtende to carry loads and show the
way. He asked a cloth to ensure his people going to the journey's end
and behaving properly; this is the only case of anything like tribute
being demanded in this journey: I gave him a cloth worth 5s. 6d.
Upland vegetation prevails; trees are dotted here and there among
bushes five feet high, and fine blue and yellow flowers are common. We
pass over a succession of ridges and valleys as in Londa; each valley
has a running stream or trickling rill; garden willows are in full
bloom, and also a species of sage with variegated leaves beneath the
flowers.
When the sepoy Perim threw away the tea and the lead lining, I only
reproved him and promised him punishment if he committed any other
wilful offence, but now he and another skulked behind and
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