we had been unwilling spectators. Some were
dumbfounded when shown that in the eye of their Maker they are parties
to the destruction of human life which accompanies this traffic both
by sea and land. If they did not sell, the Arabs would not come to
buy. Chuma and Wakatani render what is said very eloquently in Chiyau,
most of the people being of their tribe, with only a sprinkling of
slaves. Chimseia, Chimsaka, Mtarika, Mtende, Makanjela, Mataka, and
all the chiefs and people in our route to the Lake, are Waiyau, or
Waiau.[15]

On the southern slope down to the river there are many oozing springs
and damp spots where rice has been sown and reaped. The adjacent land
has yielded large crops of sorghum, congo-beans, and pumpkins.
Successive crowds of people came to gaze. My appearance and acts often
cause a burst of laughter; sudden standing up produces a flight of
women and children. To prevent peeping into the hut which I occupy,
and making the place quite dark, I do my writing in the verandah.
Chitane, the poodle dog, the buffalo-calf, and our only remaining
donkey are greeted with the same amount of curiosity and
laughter-exciting comment as myself.

Every evening a series of loud musket reports is heard from the
different villages along the river; these are imitation evening guns.
All copy the Arabs in dress and chewing tobacco with "nora" lime, made
from burnt river shells instead of betel-nut and lime. The women are
stout, well-built persons, with thick arms and legs; their heads
incline to the bullet shape; the lip-rings are small; the tattoo a
mixture of Makoa and Waiyau. Fine blue and black beads are in fashion,
and so are arm-coils of thick brass wire. Very nicely inlaid combs are
worn in the hair; the inlaying is accomplished by means of a gum got
from the root of an orchis called _Nangazu_.

_3rd July, 1866._--A short march brought us to Mtarika's new place.
The chief made his appearance only after he had ascertained all he
could about us. The population is immense; they are making new
gardens, and the land is laid out by straight lines about a foot
broad, cut with the hoe; one goes miles without getting beyond the
marked or surveyed fields.

Mtarika came at last; a big ugly man, with large mouth and receding
forehead. He asked to see all our curiosities, as the watch, revolver,
breech-loading rifle, sextant. I gave him a lecture on the evil of
selling his people, and he wished me to tell all the other