the course of
Pastor Lamers, I could not but notice the marked respect displayed by
every one who approached him.

In passing Hindoe we saw two magnificent golden eagles wheeling around
one of the loftiest cliffs. The wind blew strongly from the south-west,
increasing until we had what sailors call a dry gale in crossing the
West Fjord, but it abated the next day and by the late twilight we
recrossed the arctic circle. This night there was great rejoicing on
board, at the discovery of a star. We had not seen one for a month, and
some of the passengers coming from Finmark had been more than two months
in daylight. While we were all gazing upon it as upon some extraordinary
phenomenon, a flood of yellow lamp-light suddenly streamed through the
cabin skylight. The sky was still brilliant with sunset in the north,
but it was dark enough to see to sleep. We could not yet cover ourselves
all over, even as with a cloak; still there was a shelter and friendly
covering for the helpless body. Our sleep became sound and regular, and
its old power of restoration was doubly sweet, since we had known what
it was to be deprived of it.

Our fellow-passengers, after leaving Carlsoe, where the young Englishmen
stopped to hunt, were almost exclusively Norwegian, and this gave us
further opportunities of becoming acquainted with some peculiarities of
the national character. Intelligent Norwegians, especially those who
have travelled, are exceedingly courteous, gentlemanly, and agreeable
persons. The three officers on board were men of unusual intelligence
and refinement, and we considered ourselves fortunate in having their
company during the entire voyage. The _landhand lare_, or country
merchants, and government officials of the lower ranks, exhibit more
reserve, and not unfrequently a considerable amount of ignorance and
prejudice. Perhaps the most general feature of the Norwegian character
is an excessive national vanity, which is always on the alert, and fires
up on the slightest provocation. Say everything you like, except that
Norway in any respect is surpassed by any other country. One is assailed
with questions about his impressions of the scenery, people, government,
&c.--a very natural and pardonable curiosity, it is true, and one only
demands in return that his candour be respected, and no offence taken.
This, however, is rarely the case. If there is no retaliatory answer on
the spot, you hear a remark days afterwards which s