nges
the aspect of everything in the Russian capital, and lasts until the end
of April, when the ice generally breaks up. In the meantime the Neva
freezes to a depth of six feet. But keen as is the winter cold, the
Russians do not suffer much from it, being universally clad in furs.
Even the peasant class necessarily wear warm sheep-skins with the fleece
on, otherwise they would often freeze to death on a very brief exposure
to the low temperature which prevails in winter. Doubtless there must be
poverty and wretchedness existing here, but it certainly is not obvious
to the stranger. There is no street-begging, and no half-clad,
half-starved women or children obstruct the way as is so often the case
in London or Naples.
The five islands of the city, separated by the Nevka and Neva, are
called the "Garden Islands," and they form the pleasure-drive of the
town, having quite a country aspect, forming a series of parks where
fine roads wind through shady woods, cross green meadows, and skirt
transparent lakes. Here every variety of villa is seen embowered in
attractive verdure, and a highly rural effect is obtained within city
limits.
St. Petersburg is the most spacious capital ever built by the hand of
man, and one cannot but feel that many of its grand squares, presided
over by some famous monument, are yet dismally empty. As we look upon it
to-day, it probably bears little resemblance to the city left by the
great Peter, its founder, except in its general plan, and yet it extends
so little way into the past as to have comparatively no root in history.
The magnificent granite quays, the gorgeous palaces, the costly churches
and monuments do not date previous to the reign of Catharine II. The
choice of the locality, and the building of the capital upon it, is
naturally a wonder to those who have not thought carefully about it,
since it seems to have been contrary to all reason, and to have been
steadily pursued in the face of difficulties which would have
discouraged and defeated most similar enterprises. Ten thousand lives
and more were sacrificed among the laborers annually, while the work was
going on, owing to its unhealthy nature, but still the autocratic
designer held to his purpose, until finally a respectable but not
unobjectionable foundation may be said to have been obtained upon this
Finland marsh. Yet there are those who believe that all was foreseen by
the energetic founder, that he had a grand and definit
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