tants,
and is enclosed by ramparts pierced by ten gates, all being defended by
a strong castle of modern construction. The fortifications are kept at
all times up to a war standard, and are very complete in the department
of modern artillery. The city has nearly half a million inhabitants,
one-third of whom are Jews, who monopolize the main branches of trade.

From the top of the railway station in the Praga district one gets an
admirable view. On the opposite side of the river is seen the citadel,
the oldest portion of the town, with its narrow streets and lofty
houses, the castle and its beautiful gardens, as well as the newer
section of the city, including the public promenade and groves about the
royal villa of Lazienki. Viewed from Praga, as it slopes upward, the
effect of the city is very pleasing, and a closer examination of its
churches, former palaces, and fine public buildings confirms the
favorable impression. This view should be supplemented by one of a
bird's-eye character to be obtained from the cupola of the Lutheran
Church, which more clearly reveals the several large squares and main
arteries, bordered by graceful lime-trees.

In spite of its misfortunes, Warsaw ranks to-day as the third city in
importance as well as population in the Russian Empire. It was not made
the capital of Poland until 1566, when it succeeded Cracow. It is now
the residence of a viceroy representing the Emperor of Russia, and the
place is strongly garrisoned by the soldiers of the Tzar. War and
devastation have deprived it of many of its national and patriotic
monuments, but its squares are still ornamented with numerous admirable
statues, and with a grand array of fine public buildings. In the square
of the royal castle there is a colossal bronze statue of Sigismund III.;
in another quarter a bronze statue of Copernicus is found. It will be
remembered that he was a Pole by birth and was educated at Cracow, his
name being Latinized from Kopernik. There is a thirteenth century
cathedral close by, whose pure Gothic contrasts strongly with the Tartar
style which we have so lately left behind in Russia. This old church is
very gray and crumbling, very dirty, and very offensive to the sense of
smell, partly accounted for by obvious causes, since about the doors,
inside and out, swarm a vile-smelling horde of ragged men, women, and
children, sad and pitiful to behold.

Here we find the finest public buildings and most elegant reside