house where John Knox, the great
Scottish reformer, lived. Close by, in White Horse Close, is the inn
where Dr. Johnson lodged in 1773, while in the churchyard hard by are
the graves of Adam Smith and Dugald Stewart. It is not possible to feel
indifferent to such associations. No grander figure can be found in the
history of the Reformation than that of John Knox. His biography reads
like a romance. Whether serving a two years' sentence in the French
galleys, enduring a siege in the castle of St. Andrews, being tried for
treason by order of Queen Mary, haranguing from the pulpit against what
he considered false religionists, or having his steps dogged by
assassins, Knox never swerved from what he believed to be the path of
duty.
In the immediate environs of the city, to the south of Holyrood, are
Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat, always visited by strangers, besides
being a favorite resort of the citizens of Edinburgh. There is a fine
road-way which surrounds Arthur's Seat, known as "The Queen's Drive."
Scott made this vicinity of more than passing interest by his "Heart of
Mid-Lothian," and the local guides point out the spot where Jeanie Deans
is represented to have met Robertson. The "Queen's Drive" affords from
several points charmingly comprehensive views.
A drive of twenty miles through the hills and plains lying to the
southeast of the city will take us to Melrose, a place only noted for
its famous ruins of the Abbey. It was founded by David I., in 1136, for
monks of the Cistercian order, and rebuilt in an elaborate and elegant
style between the reign of Robert Bruce and James IV. It was the finest
church, as it is the noblest ruin, in Scotland. Scott has rendered us
familiar with it. From here we drive to Abbotsford, the home of Sir
Walter, and which is still kept exactly in the condition in which the
poet left it on the day of his death. We wander through the house,
lingering in the library, sit in the chair before the table where he sat
and wrote in prose and poetry; we examine the curious collection of
armor and the various historical mementos which he gathered about him,
among which are weapons once owned by Rob Roy and the Douglas, and those
of other real characters about whom his genius has woven such romantic
interest. Abbotsford House is large, imposing, and beautifully situated,
the spacious grounds which are attached to it sloping gracefully down to
the banks of the river Tweed, beyond which rise
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