t which
actuates the chamois-hunter, amounting to fanaticism. The country is
very sparsely inhabited, but we occasionally come upon a cluster of
picturesque habitations, quite theatrical in effect, the counterpart of
the familiar pictures and photographs we see in America. By and by,
after a long day of travel, we reach Salzburg, in the Noric Alps.

Salzburg was the birthplace of Mozart, and is still a musical place,
that branch of the fine arts being universally cultivated among the more
refined class of inhabitants. There are several public monuments
commemorative of the great composer, who played his own compositions
before the public here at the age of five years! The massive wall which
once surrounded the place is now mostly dismantled, and could only have
been of use in the Middle Ages, at which time Salzburg was probably in
its greatest state of prosperity. The manufacture of Majolica ware has
been a specialty here for a couple of centuries or more, and it has a
reputation for the production of fine fancy leather goods. Its
connection by rail with Vienna, Munich, and Innspruck insures it
considerable trade, but still there is a sleepiness about the place
which is almost contagious. It was probably different when the
archbishops held court here, at a period when those high functionaries
combined the dignity of princes of the Empire with their ecclesiastical
rank. It was at this period that the town received its few public
ornaments, and the half-dozen fine public edifices, still to be seen,
were erected.

In the absence of statistics one would say there was a population of
fifteen thousand. Some of the street scenes are peculiar. We see single
cows and oxen harnessed and worked like horses, not in shafts, but
beside a long pole. The entire absence of donkeys, so numerous elsewhere
in Europe, is quite noticeable. The women surprise us by their large
size and apparent physical strength--quite a necessary possession, since
they seem to perform the larger portion of the heavy work, while their
lazy husbands are engaged in pipe-smoking and beer-drinking. We see
girls and dogs harnessed together into milk and vegetable carts, which
they draw through the streets at early morning, to deliver the required
articles to the consumers. When the little team arrives before a
customer's door, the girl drops her harness, measures out and delivers
the milk or vegetables, while the dog waits patiently.

There is no special beauty