ness of the world is to supply
them with cake and biscuit. Now there break upon the ear the strains of
a full military band posted among the trees, and brilliant music adds
its charm to the attractive scene. This is one side of the picture; we
may perhaps with profit to ourselves turn to the other. The same bell
that rings out the marriage peal, tolls forth the funeral knell; sweet
flowers that deck the bridal altar, are also brought to lay upon the
tomb. We have not far to go in seeking for the shadow of the Tuileries
gardens. Misery in all its varied forms is to be found in the Faubourg
St. Antoine, partially hidden by almost transparent screens from the
naked eye. Crime, sickness, starvation, death, all are within no great
distance of these beautiful resorts. Dark streets where thieves and
outcasts slink away from the light of day like hunted animals; where one
reads hunger and want in silent human faces; where men are met whose
villanous expression only too plainly betrays their criminal nature.

All strangers make a visit to Pere la Chaise, the historic burial-ground
of the French capital. Its two hundred acres of monuments, tombs, and
costly sepulchres present only a sad and sombre aspect to the eye, as
unlike to Greenwood, Mount Auburn, or Forest Hills, as narrow streets
and brick houses are unlike the green and open fields of the country.
One reads upon the tombs, however, the familiar historic names with
vivid interest, such as Rossini, Moliere, Scribe, Alfred de Musset,
Talma, Arago, and others. One remarkable tomb attracts us; it is that of
Abelard and Heloise, upon which some hand has just placed _fresh_
flowers. One cannot but respect the sentiment which would perpetuate the
memory of this hero and heroine of seven hundred years ago. There are
sixty thousand tombs, mausoleums, and memorial stones within these
grounds, but none equal this one tomb for interest.

We must not forget to visit the Cluny Museum, situated on the Rue des
Mathurins, near the Boulevard St. Michel. The remarkable collection of
historic relics of the Middle Ages and subsequent period, consisting of
glass, porcelain, tapestry, carvings, weapons, and domestic utensils,
are tangible history of great interest. The building itself in which
these treasures are exhibited is a curiosity five or six hundred years
in age, near the very extensive remains of Julian's palace. With one
exception this is the only visible structure of the Roman period