from that just described. It covers five or six acres of land, and
has a curious old fountain in its centre. From one side of the square a
grand, broad flight of stone steps leads up to the elevated ground where
stands the church of Trinita de Monti. Lingering on and about these
steps the artists' models are seen at all hours of the day, both sexes
and all ages being represented among them. Old men of seventy years,
with noble heads and flowing snowy beards, bent forms and tattered
garments, sit patiently awaiting a demand upon them. Perhaps they could
afford better clothing; but they have an eye for artistic effect, and a
true sense of the fitness of things. The children, waiting here for the
same purpose, captivate our attention by their large black eyes and
gypsy complexions. How graceful and kitten-like they are, in their lazy,
lolling motions! The young girls are such as are not seen out of Italy,
with large, beautifully expressive eyes, gypsy complexions touched with
the rose color of health, and forms which would establish a sculptor's
reputation could he reproduce them. All of these persons are here for a
legitimate purpose; that is, to sit as models, for a given sum per hour,
and to this object they honestly adhere.
The favorite promenade of the Romans of to-day is the Pincio ("the hill
of gardens"), situated near and overlooking the Piazza del Popolo. It
probably derives its name from the Pincii family, whose estate it
belonged to in the period of the Empire. Hereabouts, of old, were the
celebrated gardens of Lucullus; and here Messalina, wife of Claudius,
indulged in revelries. Two afternoons of each week, as well as on all
holidays, the king's military band gives a public concert in the Pincio
gardens. The walks are kept in scrupulous neatness and order, shaded by
groups of trees, and adorned by beautiful beds of flowers. At prominent
points, fine marble statues of ancient Romans are conspicuously placed.
The paths and drives about these gardens present a gay picture at the
closing hours of each day, being the assembling-point of the social life
of modern Rome.
The Vatican, which is the Pope's palace, is one of the first and most
remarkable attractions for the traveller. We say the palace, but it is
actually a succession of palaces. This elegant stone structure, close to
the Cathedral of St. Peter's, is three stories in height, and contains a
vast number of saloons, galleries, chapels, and corridors, embra
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