he prior of this very monastery, who was well
known to be his bitterest enemy! The likeness at the period of its
production was unmistakable, and thus perpetuated the scandal.
We must not fail to make an excursion from Milan to Pavia, one of the
oldest of Italian cities. It lies on the left bank of the Ticino River,
and was in the olden times the residence of the Lombard kings, who did
not fail to beautify and improve it in their day to such an extent that
it was known all over Europe as the "City of a Hundred Towers," many of
which are extant and in excellent preservation. Though the finger of
time has pressed heavily upon it, and its ancient glory has departed,
still Pavia has a population of over thirty thousand, and lays claim to
no inconsiderable importance. If it were not a little off the usual
track of travellers, we should hear much more of its associations. The
university founded here by Charlemagne, over a thousand years ago, is
still prosperous; and the famous church of San Michael, erected at even
an earlier period, is still an object of profound interest. As we wander
about the quaint streets the impress of antiquity is upon everything
that meets the eye. Just north of the city, about a league from the
walls, is the Certosa, one of the most splendid monasteries in Europe,
founded about five hundred years since. It is absolutely crowded with
fine paintings, statuary, mosaics, and rich art ornamentation. Private
palaces abound, though now largely diverted from their original
purposes. There are also theatres, libraries, museums, gymnasiums, still
thriving after a moderate fashion. Pavia looks backward to her past
glories rather than forward to new hopes. Sacked by Hannibal, burned by
the Huns, conquered and possessed by the Romans, won by the Goths and
Lombards, it was long the capital of what was then known as the kingdom
of Italy. Then came a period of fierce civil wars, when its history
merged in that of the conquerors of Lombardy. Taken and lost by the
French so late as 1796, it was stormed and pillaged by Napoleon, but
once more came into the possession of Austria, until it finally found
refuge in the bosom of United Italy. The famous battle of Pavia, which
occurred in 1525, when Francis I. was taken prisoner, was fought close
to the Certosa.
Our next objective point is Vienna, and we take the route through
Innspruck, the capital of the Tyrol, which is most charmingly situated
in the valley of the Inn
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