cusable part of our host's conduct is, that he half
serves his guests, as Sancho was served at Barataria; for instance, as
is usually the case, the viands are put on the table and then removed to
be carved; two ducks will make their appearance at one end, two chickens
at the other; are removed, and only one of each is cut up and handed
round, the others are sent away whole to be re-dressed for some great
man who dines in his own room. This has been constantly the case since
I have been here. It may be asked, why we do not remonstrate? In the
first place, I prefer watching my host's manoeuvres; and in the next,
although I might get my duck, my host would charge me the whole value of
it when he sent in his bill.

The French Ambassador could not have taken a better step to bring the
Swiss to their senses than threatening them with a blockade. It would
have been ruin to them. All the golden harvests would have been over,
their country would have been deserted, and their Ranz des Vaches would
have been listened to only by the cows. As the French minister
expected, the councils fumed and vapoured, the officers drew their
swords and flourished them, and then--very quietly pocketed the affront
that they might not be out of pocket. What a pity it is that a nation
so brave and with so many good sterling qualities, should be, as it
would appear, so _innately_ mercenary! There never was a truer saying
than "Point d'argent, point de Suisse."

CHAPTER THIRTY SIX.

Geneva.
Twenty years have made a wonderful alteration in the good sober
puritanical city of Geneva. The improvement from the new buildings
which have been erected is so great, that I could hardly recognise the
old city of Geneva in her dress. It was an old friend with a new face,
for as you enter the town, all the new buildings and streets meet your
view. As far as it has proceeded (for there is much left yet to be
finished), the new portion of Geneva is finer than any portion of Paris,
upon an equal space of ground. But what surprised me more was to read
the _affiches_ of the _Comedie_. A theatre in Geneva! When I was last
here, a theatre was considered by the good people as criminal to the
highest degree. I inquired where the theatre was to be found, and it
was all true--there _was_ a _theatre_. I then made more inquiries. It
appeared that Mammon had seduced the puritans of Geneva. Pe