will come when there will be a
revolution in the republic. Nothing can prevent it, unless all the
cantons are vested into one central government, instead of so many petty
oligarchies, as at present, and which will eventually tire out the
patience of the people.
I parted from my noble host, and will do him the justice to say that his
bill was so moderate, compared to the others paid in Switzerland, that I
almost wished that all the inns in the cantons were held by the
nobility--that is, provided they would follow his example. His wine was
excellent, and I suspect was laid in long before the sign was hung up at
the door.
From Soleure to Berne the whole road was lined with parties of troops
ordered in that direction: every man of them was drunk, cheering, and
hooting, and hallooing at us as we passed. As for the peasant girls
they met on the road, I really pitied them. At last we have arrived at
Berne. The Bernese have chosen a most appropriate symbol in their
heraldic crests of the bear, and, as if they had not a sufficient
quantity inside of their towns, they keep four in the ditch outside.
What a difference between the _tables d'hote_ in Germany and in
Switzerland! I always prefer the _table d'hote_ when it is respectable,
for nothing is more unpleasant than remaining in a hotel shut up in your
own room; the latter may be more dignified and aristocratic, but it is
not the way to see the world; one might as well be in England, and,
indeed, had much better. A _table d'hote_ is a microcosm: you meet
there all nations, people of all professions--some idle, some busy
travelling on important matters, others travelling for amusement. You
are unfortunate if you do not fall in with one clever man at least, and
you are quite sure to meet with a fool, which is almost as amusing.
When I survey a _table d'hote_ I often think of the calenders who had
all come to spend the _Ramadhan_ at Bagdad, and their histories; and I
have thought that Grattan might make a very good series of Highways and
Byways if he could obtain the history of those who meet at this general
rendezvous. The _tables d'hote_ in Germany are excellent, properly
supplied, and very moderate. I cannot say so of those in Switzerland.
The fondness of the Swiss for money betrays itself in everything, and
instead of liberality at the _table d'hote_, we have meanness. The
dinner itself is dearer than in Germany, and not half so good; but what
is the most unex
|