We found a stake driven into the earth, to which
a bunch of feathers was attached for a weather-cock; in several places
fire had been kindled, as some burning embers still attested. There were
also two Indian canoes made of reeds. The pilot gave me the names of two
tribes who had formerly dwelt in this region, and probably still
wandered in its vicinity--the Tschupukanes, and Hulpunes. We could now
see the smoke of their fires rising from the marshy islands, the higher
parts of which they inhabit.
The majestic chain of mountains of the Sierra Nevada looked most
beautiful from this spot. The whole eastern horizon was bounded by these
masses of ice, and before them the low land lay spread out like a
verdant sea. From the Bay of St. Francisco, the Sierra Nevada are
nowhere visible; but they first come in sight after having passed the
point where the Pescadores and the Sacramento unite.
The day was again passed in sport, and we shot many stags, the meat of
which proved extremely good. During the night we were again disturbed by
the little wolves so common here: they stole some pieces of our venison.
Early the next morning we prepared for our return, and soon quitted
these lovely and fertile plains, where many thousand families might live
in plenty and comfort, but which now, from their utter loneliness, leave
a mournful impression on the mind, increased by the reflection that the
native Indians have been nearly exterminated. During our return voyage,
we were very diligent in taking soundings, and found the water in the
middle of the river always as much as from fifteen to seventeen and
twenty fathoms; but at its mouth not more than four or five fathoms
deep.
On the 23rd of November we again reached our vessel, laden with venison
for the whole crew. Captain Lasaref had arrived during our absence with
his frigate; having struggled with storms almost the whole way from New
Archangel to St. Francisco. With the intention of sending letters home
by him, I had waited for his arrival to leave California. Our vessel was
therefore now immediately prepared for sailing, our camp on shore broken
up, and all the instruments brought on board. During the last night our
people passed on land, they killed a polecat which had slunk into the
tent. This animal, of the size and form of an ordinary cat, has so
abominable a smell, that its vicinity is insupportable. Dogs, when they
sometimes attack and bite these creatures, cannot relieve the
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