eave is called an 8-shaft or an 8-harness weave. In marking
out a weave, the warp-threads are represented by vertical lines, the
filling by horizontal ones, or in each case by the space between these
lines. The places where a warp-thread lies over the filling are marked with
paint or simply with a cross. In a similar manner we mark out the _chain
draft_, which indicates the rotation in which the shafts are raised.

* * * * *

[Page 17]
THE TAFFETA WEAVE

[Illustration: Fig. 16]

* * * *

[Illustration: Fig. 17]

[Page 18]
This is the simplest and oldest method of interlacing. The odd numbers of
warp-threads cross the even numbers after every pick; hence of two
warp-threads one will always go over the first pick and under the second,
and the other end under the first and over the second pick. Taffeta cloth,
therefore, has the same appearance on both sides, and in cotton and wool
weaving this weave is technically--and properly indeed--called the _Plain
Weave_. It has the smallest repeat, 2 warp-threads and 2 picks, and the
exchanging of warp and filling is the most frequent possible. The cloth
thus produced is firmer and stronger than that obtained with any other
weave.

Fig. 16 is a taffeta on 4 shafts straight draw, the draft executed in the
manner which we have already mentioned in explaining the drawing-in drafts.

Fig. 17 on common designing paper, illustrates a taffeta made on 8-harness,
skip draw.

Be it mentioned that the drawing-in draft and the chain draft will be added
throughout this work, the former over the weave to correspond with the
respective warp-threads, the latter to the right of the drawing-in draft.

* * * * *

[Page 19]
GROS DE TOURS WEAVES

[Illustration: Fig. 18]

* * * *

[Illustration: Fig. 19]

In this weave the working of the warp is the same as in taffeta, except
that instead of one pick, two or more are inserted in the same shed. It is
mostly used in selvedges, where it serves to give more firmness to the edge
of an otherwise loosely woven cloth, and prevents the weaving ahead of the
edge in a tight weave. Gros de Tours is sometimes used, especially when
cotton or woo