necessary
shafts. If we have, for instance, 100 threads per inch to be drawn on 4
shafts, we must give each shaft 25 heddles per inch. There are generally
between 25 and 45 heddles per inch on one shaft.

8. REDUCTION OF THE FILLING

Here we state the number of picks per inch, give directions as to doubling,
if such is necessary, and if more than one color or shuttle is used, the
rotation thereof.

9. CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING

The system adopted in this country for specifying the size of silk is based
on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000 yards. A
skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk. The number
of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000. The formulas
for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of cloth are as
follows:

Warp Calculation

_Multiply_: Number of endsxlengthxcount
-----------------------------
_Divide by_: 1000 yardsx256 drams

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Filling Calculation

_Multiply:_ Picksxxplyxwidthxlength of piecexcount
-------------------------------------- = lbs.
_Divide by:_ 1000 yardsx256 drams

The result in both cases will be in pounds.

The system of grading the silk which is in vogue in Europe, and which is
employed by a number of mills on this side, is as follows:

1 skein of 500 meters, weighing 0,05 grams = 1 denier international
or 1 " 476 " " 0,053 " = 1 " Turin system
or 1 " 476 " " 0,051 " = 1 " Milan "

The warp calculation, taking the international denier, would run:

ends in warpxlengthxdenierx0,05 gram
--------------------------------------
_divided by:_ 500 meters

for the filling: Picks per meterxxplyxwidthxdenierx0,05 gram
---------------------------------------------
_divided by:_ 500 meters

Result in metric weight, kilograms and grams.

10. FINISHING

Give directions as to the process of finishing to which the goods are to be
subjected, whether to be pressed, calendered, sized, moired, etc.

11. CALCULATION OF COST

If all the foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a piece of
the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine the exact
figure at which