ed on designing paper. This
being done for at least the length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and
examine the following thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is
complete. It is advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the
first examined thread the next following one binds before taking the former
out.

A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the foregoing
chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple pattern by
merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of interlacing and
counting off how many picks apart from this place it makes an impression.

2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC

To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must add
a certain allowance for shrinkage and _taking up_ of warp during weaving.
It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the texture and weave
of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient accuracy by
stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and comparing
their length with the respective measurements of the sample to be
reproduced.

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3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE

Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature, _twist_,
_quality_ and _size_ of the silk, and the directions for the dyeing,
whether _bright_ or _souple_, and in what colors, also whether to be
weighted or not.

The size is generally ascertained (in practical work) by comparing it with
other silk of which the exact count is known. Another method is to count
the number of cocoon threads which a thread of the sample contains, adding
to that 1/3 or 1/4, according to the quality of the silk; the result will be
the count in deniers. To obtain it in drams, divide the latter number by
17,3 as 1 dram is equal to 17,3 deniers.

Suppose we find 20 cocoon ends in a thread of silk: add 1/3, and we have
26-2/3 deniers, which, divided by 17,3 make 1,54 drams.

As silk is always more or less uneven, it is safer to count the cocoon
fibers of several threads and to take average thereof.

It requires the experience of years to judge with any degree of certainty
as to the origin and quality of silk, whether it be "classical," "extra,"
"sublime," etc.

There are machines wherewith to ascertain exactly the twist, that is, the
number of turns the silk has received in the throwing process.

In the dyeing we distinguish two great clas