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JACQUARD WEAVES

Jacquard weaves usually show on a plain ground figure or flower effects. To
obtain these effects the ground is made of one weave, say taffeta, while
the figures or flowers are produced in another weave, say satin.

We enter the warp through a jacquard harness, and according to the repeat
use a 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200, etc., hook jacquard machine, which means
200, 400, 600, 900 and 1200 ends per repeat.

With a 600-hook machine a larger repeat can be produced than with a
499-hook machine. For instance, if we want to make a cloth the figures of
which are to be two inches apart, it is a two-inch repeat, and use the
count of 50/4 or 200 ends per inch, we can use a 400-hook machine, 2 in. x
200 ends. But we can make this cloth also on a 1200-hook machine, only the
repeat must be designed three times. The advantage of using a 1200-hook
machine with the count 50/4 is that 2, 3, 4, 6-inch repeats can be
produced, while with a 400-hook machine, only a 2-inch repeat can be made.

There is no end to all the different weaves and the possible flower and
other pattern effects that can be made with the jacquard machine. For a
jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.

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BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES

Box looms are required for weaves such as bayaderes, checks, plaids (see
pages 63-65), bengalines, crepes, etc., where two or more shuttles are
needed to bring out the effect.

For the crepes (crepe de chine, crepe georgette) only two shuttles are
needed, while plaids and other articles are made with more shuttles.

To weave such articles the loom or the lay must be fitted with two or more
shuttle boxes on one or both sides of the loom.

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If a manufacturer decides to change plain looms to box looms or buy new box
looms, it is wise to get 4 x 4 boxes, or four shuttle boxes on each side.

With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in
box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared.

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MANUFACTURING COSTS

The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used, the
cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of silk,
cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and
weaving.

Then the filling: Silk to be used, ho