ses, of which the names
themselves give a good definition. "Bright" has a brilliant luster, while
"souple" has more of a dull, subdued appearance. To find out whether the
silk has been weighted in the dyeing process, we may compare it with other
silk of which the exact conditions are known, or we may burn a small
quantity of it. Unweighted silk does not burn readily and leaves a residue
of white ashes, while heavy weighted silk burns lively, leaving black,
charry ashes.

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4. REED CALCULATION

We count the number of repeats of the weave in a given space, generally 1/4
or 1/2 inch, and multiply this with the number of threads one repeat
contains, which gives us the reduction of the warp.

Suppose we had a taffeta, which, as we know, has only 2 ends to a repeat,
and counted 30 interlacings per 1/4 inch on one pick; we would have 60
threads per 1/4 inch or 240 per one inch. In this case the reed may be 80 by
3 or 60 by 4.

Another instance: In an 8-shaft satin we count 10 warp-threads, which bind
on the same pick in 1/4 inch; this, multiplied by 8, equals 80 ends per 1/4, or
320 per one inch; the reed will be an 80 with 4 in a dent or a 64 by 5.

In short, the number of the reed is found by dividing the number of
warp-threads that are to go in one dent, in the number of ends per inch.
Sometimes, the reed marks are clearly visible in a sample by holding the
latter against the light. Silk fabrics move with very few exceptions within
the limits of 50 and 90 dents per inch.

To learn the full number of dents required for the width of the cloth,
simply multiply the dents per one inch with the width, adding a certain
allowance for shrinkage. The edges, of course, must also be taken in
consideration, and very often the dents that are taken up by the latter are
used to counter-balance that shrinkage.

5. DRAWING-IN THE WARP IN HARNESS AND REED

Here we must specify the number of dents that contain the same number of
ends, and whether the latter are single or double, also the number of
shafts and the method of drawing-in.

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6. WARPING TICKET

To make out the warping ticket, we need to ascertain the total number of
ends, whether leased single or double, and the arrangement of the colors.

7. HARNESS ARRANGEMENT

This is governed by the number of ends to be drawn in and the