ly all wood-yards stock first-quality pine,
but it is in planks 3 inches thick. You can no
doubt pick up a short length about 4 feet long.

If so, take it to a sawmill and have two boards
1-1/4 inches thick cut and then machine-planed
down to a dead inch. Perhaps you can purchase a
board that is already cut, and is fully 1 inch
thick, to allow for planing.

Prepare one edge of the board straight with a
plane, seeing that it is square to the surface.

As a planing-machine always leaves a series of
ridges across the board, varying according to the
quality of the machine, it is necessary before
transferring the lines to the wood to just skim
the surface with a nicely sharpened plane, and set
so as to just skim the wood.

[Illustration: FIG. 153]

The lengths required are: _A_, plank 24 inches
long; _B_, plank 24 inches; _C_, plank 18-1/2
inches.

The _D_ plank will be cut from the center of _B_,
but will have to be shifted two sections forward.

Having transferred the various shapes from the
drawing on to their respective layers, you saw out
each carefully with a bow or a keyhole-saw, care
being taken not to cut inside the lines. It is
better to cut full, and trim down to the lines
with a chisel or plane. A good deal of trouble can
be saved by the expenditure of a few cents for
having them machine-sawed, in which case ask the
sawyer to use his finest-toothed saw.

Having cut out layers _A_, _B_, _C_, and _D_,
fresh lines are marked, as shown by the dotted
lines in the plan. These indicate the shape of the
inside of each layer when the boat is carved out,
and save labor.

These may as well be sawed out now as carved out
later. It will also facilitate gluing up, as it
will allow the superfluous glue to be squeezed
out, and also decrease the breadth of the joint.

In order to get these various layers glued
together dead true to their positions as indicated
in the design, you must choose a section about
amidships, say section 11, and with a square draw
a line from that section, which is