, of course,
still showing on the surface of the layer, down
the edge on either side, joining up with a line
across the opposite face. Also vertical lines at
each end of the midships line must be drawn on
the wood, great care being taken to get the
midships line on the under face of the layers dead
opposite each other.

[Illustration: FIG. 154]

[Illustration: FIG. 155]

If your outfit contains half a dozen carpenter's
hand screws, these can be used; but if not, it
will be necessary to purchase from a hardware
store eight seven-inch bolts and nuts 3/8 inch in
diameter, with one washer for each, and to make up
four clamps, as shown in Fig. 156.

[Illustration: FIG. 156]

You will start by gluing layer _C_ to layer _D_,
blocks being placed between the surface of the
layers and the clamps to prevent bruising the
wood. These two are then glued to layer _B_, and
when this is thoroughly set they are glued to the
layer _A_. The best glue to use for this job is
marine glue, which does not dry too quickly, and
so gives plenty of time to see that the layers
have not shifted. In every case one clamp should
be placed at each extreme end of the shorter
layer, so as to insure the ends making contact,
the other two being placed equidistant.

While waiting for the glue to set, you can be
preparing the four layers (shown below _D_) for
the lead keel pattern. The lines must be cut out,
in this case, with a chisel, as it will be noticed
that the lower faces must be left wide enough to
receive the top face of the layer beneath it.

It will be noticed that the under face of each of
these layers extends beyond the top face aft, and
allowance must be made for this. On laying off the
lines on the fin layers, do not join up with a
point each end, but leave about 1/8 inch
thickness, as shown on the drawing.

These layers must be drilled through to take the
keel-bolts, which are made from two motorcycle
spokes, twelve-gage. These should be cut to a
length of 5-1/2 or 6 inches. Great care should be
taken to insure that