be done before the deck is put on.
The step is made from two pieces of brass, each
about 1/32 inch in thickness, 1 inch long and 1/2
inch wide. One is hard-soldered on edge down the
center of the other to form something like a T
girder. A slot, as illustrated, is cut in the
upright piece with a ward file, and holes drilled
in the flat for screwing down on the inside of the
boat. A ferrule of brass tube is fitted to the
heel of the mast, a cut of suitable size being
made in it to receive the upright of the step. A
hole should be drilled through the heel of the
mast at right angles to the slot, and a wire
passed through and riveted, the latter being of
suitable thickness to be received by the slot in
the step.
[Illustration: FIG. 164]
[Illustration: FIG. 163]
[Illustration: FIG. 162]
The rudder-blade (Fig. 162) is made from a piece
of sheet brass fitted to a tube, the latter being
an easy fit into the stern-tube already fitted.
The blade can be soldered onto the tube. The
pintle on which the rudder fits and swings is a
strip of brass, the width of the after fin, a wire
pin being hard-soldered in to fit up into the
rudder.
The pintle (Fig. 163) should be fitted before the
painting is started.
In the steering gear, instead of a quadrant, as
the fitting on the rudder-head of the "Braine"
gear is called, you fit an ordinary tiller (Fig.
164) by bending a wire to suit your fancy and
soldering it on to a collar made from a piece of
tube that will just sleeve on the outside of the
rubber-tube, which latter is fixed by drilling a
hole right through it and the rudder head, and
fitting a tapered pin.
[Illustration: FIG. 165]
[Illustration: FIG. 166]
The steering-gear rack (Fig. 165) by which the
amount of helm is adjusted is made from a strip of
brass cut with lugs which are bent up at right
angles as illustrated. This need only be of thin
sheet metal, as the strain is very small.
For running before the wind, separate lines are
used, two in number, as illustrated, and the
amount of helm is
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