lid block of
wood.

Now, as regards understanding the drawings: it is
essential to remember that a line which in one
view is a curve is always a straight line in the
other two views. Those lines which are drawn
parallel to the water-line are known as
water-lines, and it will be seen that the curves
shown on the deck plan represent the actual shapes
of the hull at the corresponding water-lines
above, below, and exactly on the load water-line.
In other words, if after the hull is made it were
sunk down to these various levels, the shapes of
the hole made in the surface of the water would be
as shown in the plan.

Therefore, instead of making our boat from a solid
block of wood, we will make our block up from
several layers, the thickness of each layer being
equal to the space between the water-lines; but
before gluing these layers together we will cut
them out to the exact shape that the boat will be
at their various positions.

It will not be necessary to have a separate piece
of wood for each layer, as some layers below the
actual water-line will be cut from the pieces of
wood that have been cut out from the layers above.

In this case, the boat being 24 inches long, the
top layer will be the same length and breadth as
the boat, and 1 inch in thickness.

Draw down the center of the board a straight
line, and other lines square to it, representing
the position of the cross-sections as shown in the
drawing. You have now to transfer the deck line to
this board, and this is done by marking the
breadth at the various sections and drawing a
curve through the spots, a thin strip of
straight-grained wood being used as a rule, the
latter being held down by such weights as are
available. For the purpose of laying off the
water-lines truly, lines spaced at 1-1/2 inches
are shown; the first, it will be noticed, is half
a section or 3/4 inch from the stem head.

The material required will be a board of pine
about 6 feet long, 8 inches wide, and 1 inch
finished thickness.

Near