ountain-finch that
looks like a half-starved robin. A mile to the right before entering the
village is the monastery of the Red Lamas, which was the lodging-place
of the Bhutanese Envoy during his stay at Phari. The building, which is
a landmark for miles, is stone-built, and coated over with red earth,
which gives it the appearance of brick. Its overhanging gables,
mullioned windows without glass, that look like dominoes in the
distance, the pendent bells, and the gay decorations of Chinese paper,
look quaint and mystical, and are in keeping with the sacred character
of the place. Bogle stopped here on October 27, 1774, and drank tea with
the Abbot. It is very improbable that any other white man has set foot
in the monastery since, until the other day, when some of the garrison
paid it a visit and took photographs of the interior. The Lamas were a
little deprecatory, but evidently amused. I did not expect them to be so
tolerant of intrusion, and their clamour for backsheesh on our departure
dispelled one more illusion.

At Chuggya we were at the very foot of Chumulari (23,930 feet), which
seems to rise sheer from the plain. The western flank is an abrupt wall
of rock, but, as far as one can see, the eastern side is a gradual
ascent of snow, which would present no difficulties to the trained
mountaineer. One could ride up to 17,000 feet, and start the climb from
a base 2,000 feet higher than Mont Blanc. Chumulari is the most sacred
mountain in Tibet, and it is usual for devout Buddhists to stop and
offer a sacrifice as they pass. Bogle gives a detailed account of the
service, the rites of which are very similar to some I witnessed at
Galingka on the Tibetan New Year, February 16.

'Here we halted,' he wrote in his journal, 'and the servants gathering
together a parcel of dried cow-dung, one of them struck fire with his
tinder-box and lighted it. When the fire was well kindled, Parma took
out a book of prayers, one brought a copper cup, another filled it with
a kind of fermented liquor out of a new-killed sheep's paunch, mixing in
some rice and flour; and after throwing some dried herbs and flour into
the flame, they began their rites. Parma acted as chaplain. He chanted
the prayers in a loud voice, the others accompanying him, and every now
and then the little cup was emptied towards the rock, about eight or ten
of these libations being poured forth. The ceremony was finished by
placing upon the heap of stones the litt