icating by a subterranean passage with the
comparatively modern Puerta del Rosario. To the east of this gateway we
soon reach the ramparts, just above a ruined fort, and near the modern
battery of San Fernando. From these ramparts you have the finest view of
Tarragona and its surroundings.

On one side stretch far and wide the blue waters of the Mediterranean.
Lateen-rigged feluccas, with white sails set, are wafted to and fro by
the gentle breeze. Life on board seems a paradise of luxurious ease and
indolence. Nothing marks the passing hours but the slow progress of the
sun. The sky is as intensely blue as the sea, and the air seems full of
light. You are dazzled by so much brilliance. Distant objects stand out
in clear detail. The wide undulating plain stretches far away to the
left, broken by towns and villages, the famous castle of Altafulla in
the distance. Below the town lies the aqueduct, one of the most perfect
Roman remains in Spain.

At our feet are the city walls, enclosing all the wonderful antiquities,
and above the picturesque roofs of the houses rise the matchless
outlines of the cathedral.

To this same cathedral we made our way this morning, passing through the
market-place lively with stalls, buyers and sellers; Spanish men and
women picturesque in their national costumes: a modern human picture
side by side with outlines of the highest antiquity.

Passing through an archway we found ourselves in the Cathedral Square,
dazzled by the splendour of the vision. Here the market had overflowed,
and the market-women, full of life and colouring and animation, sat in
front of their fruit and flower-stalls. One and all tempted us to buy,
and rare were the wares they sold. Again the new and the ancient blended
together; for beyond the women rose those marvellous outlines, sharply
pencilled against the brilliant blue sky: magnificent contrast of
colouring, wherein everything was in strong light and shadow.

Our strange experience of last night was still full upon us. We had
hardly recovered from the dream state into which the marvellous music of
Quasimodo had plunged us with strange mesmeric influence.

The beauty of the night, the pure pale moonlight effect, had not
prepared us for the splendours of to-day: so effective, lovely and
diversified a cathedral: the most remarkable exterior we had yet found
in Spain. The whole square with its surrounding houses is a dream. The
church dates from the eleventh centu