.

But time the inexorable refused to stand still, and when the final hour
struck, the relentless omnibus carried us away.

Francisco accompanied us to the station, having an idea that without his
help we should inevitably go wrong. He was a witness to the abominably
rude station-master, who in this respect has not his equal in Spain,
according to our experience. Finally we moved off.

At the moment we felt a distinct mental wrench. Tarragona was indeed
over. To our right was the harbour with its little crowd of
fishing-boats; out on the sea lovely white-winged feluccas glided to and
fro. The whole journey was one of extreme beauty. Very soon we had the
sea on our left, and often the train skirted the very waves as they
rolled over their golden sands. The coast was broken and diversified,
now rising to hills and cliffs, now falling to a level with the shore.
Where we passed inland the country was rich and fruitful, showing more
and more the luxuriance of the South.

Many of the towns had historical interests or remains to make them
remarkable. At Hospitalet we found ourselves on the site of a House of
Refuge for pilgrims from Zaragoza who in the Middle Ages were wont to
cross the mountains in caravans after visiting the scene of some
miraculous pillar or image. Near this we skirted a fishing village,
where the train was almost washed by the sea that, blue and flashing,
stretched far and wide. The little fleet was moving out of the small
harbour as we passed, each followed by its shadow upon the water.
Picturesque Amposta was the centre and atmosphere of the lost centuries.
It existed long before the Romans, who, on taking it, made it one of
their chief stations. Here came Hercules, and after him St. Paul, who
did much work and ordained a bishop to carry on his labours. Later came
the Moors, when it reached the height of its glory. In 809 Louis le
Debonnaire, son of Charlemagne, besieged it, was repulsed, returned in
811 and conquered. The Moors quickly retook it, but the disorganised
inhabitants had become nothing better than pirates. So in 1143 the
Templars came down upon them, and inspired by the late victory at
Almeria, aided by the Italians, conquered in their turn: only to be
turned out again the following year by the inevitable Moors.

Everywhere the eye rested upon a lovely scene of river, sea and land,
intensely blue sky and brilliant sunshine. In our carriage we had a very
interesting bride and bridegroom.