ed, she died the very day before they were to have been
married. He remained inconsolable, and at last took orders. At one time
he had an idea of becoming a monk; but he is very clever, and was
persuaded to take up a more active life in the church. As you saw him
now, so he always is; grave, subdued, gentle and kindly. No one goes to
him for help in vain. Here he is venerated."

We felt drawn towards this refined ecclesiastic and wished to know him,
but no opportunity presented itself. The cloisters seemed to gain an
added charm by his presence. His dress and appearance exactly suited
them, giving them an additional touch of picturesque romance and human
interest. The whole scene inspired us with a strange affection for
Tarragona, and there are few places in Spain we would sooner revisit.

A little later, when we were going round the precincts, they seemed
suddenly to swarm with a small army of boys. These were turning out of
the new seminary, a mongrel building designed on old lines, therefore
neither one thing nor the other. We entered, and turning to the left,
found ourselves in modern cloisters echoing with the shouts of boys at
play: cloisters attractive only from the fact that they enclosed a
small, very ancient church--the church of San Pablo--a rare gem in its
way; with a square-headed doorway and Romanesque capitals, and a small
turret holding the bell, above which was a thin iron cross. It was a
lovely building, and lost in admiration we stood gazing. The boys who
came round us without the least shyness could not understand it.

"What do you see in it?" asked one of them. "We should like to knock the
old barrack down. It takes up our play-room. A wretched old building,
neither use nor ornament. But we can't get rid of it. It won't burn; it
is so solid that we can't demolish it; and we daren't use dynamite. We
have to put up with it."

"And you would rather put up with the grapes and the oranges in the
market-place?" we suggested.

"We should like to put them _down_, senor. Only try us."

Having invited the challenge, it had to be accepted: and the whole troop
tore off with one consent to drive bargains with the fruit-women. One
boy, however, remained behind; a fair, thoughtful lad of about fifteen,
with large, dreamy, beautiful brown eyes.

"Why don't you join them, and take your share of the spoil?" we asked
him.

"Senor, I would rather study this old chapel than eat all the grapes in
Catalonia," he