e
must hush up the matter as well as we can, and so dispose of the ghosts.
They would never walk after decent burial. Ah, senor, what a tragedy you
have opened up! And all the time I was accusing the wretched pair of I
know not what!"

Fortunately for us this conversation took place towards the end of
dinner, or we should have fared badly. We left the landlord in his
dining-room. He had dropped into a chair and was gazing on vacancy,
evidently in deep thought as to how he could have the well dragged
without creating a scandal to the detriment of his hotel.

We went out into the quiet night, making sure the night porter was on
duty and would keep there. The streets were as dark, quiet and
ill-lighted as ever, and we took care to avoid Pandemonium. The
market-place, so full and lively this morning, was now empty and silent.
From the cafe already alluded to streams of light and strains of music
were flowing. We turned in out of curiosity. Half a dozen musicians at
the further end were making unearthly discords: shrieking and wailing
instruments set one's teeth on edge and went down one's back like cold
water. The room was fairly full, the atmosphere heavy with smoke; such
smoke as only the Catalonians know how to produce.

Our entrance created quite a sensation. We were recognised as English,
and the English who visit Lerida are few and far between. Was our visit
friendly or the opposite? Their glances plainly asked the question. Then
one in military uniform came up, and, with a military salute ventured to
sit down near us. We thought it a singular proceeding, but decided to
take it in good part. He proved to be a captain of the regiment
stationed at Lerida, and a really friendly and polite man.

"I perceive, sirs, that you are strangers," he said. "Can I be of any
service to you in a place where I am very much at home?"

To which we replied that our stay was drawing to a close, and we had
probably seen the best of the town. "There is nothing you can do for us,
though we are grateful for your good intentions. But if you would induce
those in authority to grant their passes into the fortress with less
restriction, you would confer a favour upon any who may come after us."

"A senseless restriction indeed," replied our new friend, "and we all
feel it so; but until some disappointed visitor of consequence appeals
to the Queen or the Madrid Government, the thing will go on. There is
absolutely no reason why all the world