days of the Goths there was another
building on this very spot. The Moors came and it was turned into a
mosque; and when Alonza the Warrior re-took the city the church was
reconstructed. This was early in the twelfth century. Here the kings of
Aragon were crowned with pomp and ceremony, and here our most important
councils have been held. Now come and look at our Moorish tiles."

And again, without pause in his talk, and without ceremony, he led the
way. We could only willingly follow through the lovely forest of
pillars, crossing one aisle after another, sharing his enthusiasm. We
had the whole church to ourselves. The people of Zaragoza seemed too
busy to trouble themselves about dreams of architecture.

"Look again," said the old priest, as we stood outside in front of the
north wall. "These tiles are very beautiful and remarkable. They are
undoubtedly Moorish; the work of Moorish craftsmen. Do you observe the
fineness of the colours, the rich deep blue that contrasts so well with
the emerald green? You would think the effect of so much colour would be
garish, but on the contrary it is quiet and subdued, with great dignity
about it. This is quite the oldest part of the exterior. One can only
regret that the whole was not tiled, for then we should have possessed a
unique building with which to challenge the world. You see there are
still evidences of an earlier church than this," and he pointed to
certain remains which were unmistakably Romanesque: in the lower part of
the apse, the buttresses and in one of the windows.

"And there," said the old priest, pointing to an immense building, "is
the Bishop's palace, which was sacked and ruined by the French in that
terrible war. Since that day much that was interesting in Zaragoza has
disappeared; but heaven be praised, we have still our cathedral, and as
long as we have that, the rest matters little. And now I must wish you
good-morning. It is my hour for breakfast--a very frugal meal with me,
consisting chiefly of eggs and sweet herbs. Ah, senor," with a round
gurgling laugh, "I see what you are thinking--that eggs and sweet herbs
never developed this rotundity of person. You are wrong. I fast twice in
the week; I never touch anything stronger than coffee; I have only two
simple meals a day; and yet you see how prodigal nature is in her
dealings with me. You doubt me? Come with me. I live at a stone's throw.
You shall see my abode and interrogate my old housekeeper, and