table stalls were the most picturesque, full of fragrance and
colouring. Luscious grapes and pomegranates were heaped side by side
with a wealth of roses and orange blossoms and the still sweeter
verbena. Many of the stall-holders wore costumes which harmonised
admirably with the arcades and gabled roofs. The street was crowded with
buyers and sellers and loungers, though few seemed alive to the
picturesque element, in which we were absorbed. Many of the men,
stalwart, strong and vigorous, were dressed in the costume of the
country; knee-breeches and broad-brimmed hat; whilst broad blue and red
silken sashes were tied round the waist: a hardy, active race, made for
endurance. This scene had by far the most human interest of any we found
in Zaragoza. As a picture of Old Spain, it would have made the fortune
of an artist as we saw it that day in all the effect of sunlight and
shadow, all the life and movement that seemed to rouse the arcades of
the past into touch with the present.

Near to this a wonderful leaning-tower stood until recently; a
magnificent Moorish-looking clock-tower built about the year 1500. This
was one of the glories of Zaragoza; but the inhabitants after
subscribing a sum of money to prop it up, grew alarmed and subscribed
another sum to pull it down. In reality it was perfectly safe and might
have stood for centuries.

But when all is said and done, it is in its side streets, narrow,
tortuous and gloomy, that the interest of Zaragoza chiefly lies.

Many of the houses are ancient and enormous palaces, once inhabited by
the old aristocracy of Aragon. They are so solidly built that they not
only defy time, but almost the destructive hand of man. Some of them
have wonderfully interesting facades: roofs with overhanging eaves and
Gothic windows guarded by wrought ironwork; features that can never
tire.

Magnificent and imposing gateways lead into yet more imposing
courtyards. One of these was especially beautiful: and its history was
romantic.

[Illustration: FAIR LUCIA'S HOUSE: ZARAGOZA.]

It once belonged to the son of a reigning duke who renounced all for
love, and thought the world well lost. He offended his family by his
marriage, and they treated him as one dead.

The lady of his choice, fair Lucia, was beautiful and charming, but
beneath him. Tradition says that she was an actress, and that he fell
hopelessly in love with her as she played in a drama where all ended
tragically. It might h