ining and
beautifying.

Still below us, on the left, ran the broad river, with its dark, almost
blood-red waters flowing swiftly under the high, picturesque bridge. We
traced its winding course between deep banks far out into the country;
just as we had traced it from the heights of Montserrat, not far off as
the eagle flew. Here too everything was veiled in a thin mist.

The rock on which the church stood consisted of a series of hollows,
where grew lovely hanging gardens and flowering trees. The church with
its striking outlines looked massive enough to defy the ages. It was of
the true fourteenth century Catalan type, and took the place of a church
that had existed here in the tenth century. Its buttresses are
especially large and prominent. The lofty tower stands over the north
aisle. Four arched stone ribs crown the steeple, within which a bell is
suspended. A fine Romanesque doorway leads into the modern uninteresting
cloister. Other fine doorways lead into the interior of the church. Its
great size, high and wide, is impressive, but the details are trivial.
The capitals of the enormous octagonal columns are poor, and the arches
they support, thin and almost contemptible, take immensely from the
general effect.

Here also, there was no need to remain long. With the charms of
Barcelona cathedral lingering in the mind as a dream and a world's
wonder, the collegiate church of Manresa, with all its loftiness and
expanse, was cold and lifeless, without sense of beauty or devotion. In
its striking situation lies the chief merit of the town.

[Illustration: MANRESA FROM THE HILL-SIDE: EVENING.]

We went down the banks, stood on the shallows and watched the deep red
waters rushing through the bridge. Beyond it was a slight fall over
which the waters poured in a crimson stream. Near the bridge stood a
large, ancient crucifix. On the farther bank of the river rose the
outlines of the Cave of Ignatius Loyola. Above the cave has now been
built a great church, and the cave itself, reached by a short passage in
its north-east corner, has been turned into a votive chapel, to which
pilgrims flock at stated times.

Manresa is of course for ever associated with the name of Loyola. He had
been staying some time at the Monastery of Montserrat, preparing his
mind for the great change he intended to make in his life. As he
wandered about the mountain in his cavalier's dress, he must have looked
far more fitted to lead an army th