the north corner, and the staircase
leading to it, are marvels of exquisite wood-carving and rare old
ironwork. The canopies are delicately wrought, and the _misereres_
ornamented with fine foliage. Upwards, the eye is arrested by the beauty
of the surrounding fluted pillars, on which rest the main arches of the
nave. These cut and intersect the pointed arches of the deep galleries
beyond, placed above the side chapels, of which there are an immense
number. Turn which way you will, it is nothing but a long view of
receding aisles, arches, and columns free or partly hidden by some
lovely pillar; windows of the deepest, richest colours ever seen;
mysterious recesses where daylight never penetrates; a subdued tone of
infinite refinement; a solemn repose and sense of unbroken harmony.

[Illustration: TWILIGHT IN BARCELONA CATHEDRAL]

A little to the right the eye rests on the great organ, filling up one
of the deep dark galleries. Its immense swinging shutters are open,
exposing silvery pipes. The organist is at his post, but only for
recreation, for it is not the hour of service. Soft, sweet music
breathes and vibrates through the aisles, dies away in dim recesses,
floats out of existence in the high vaulting of the roof; but the sense
of repose is never disturbed. Sitting in a quiet corner of the stalls,
amidst all this beauty of tone and outline, one feels in Paradise.

But the charm of charms lies in the octagonal lantern at the west end,
and here Barcelona stands unrivalled.

This crowning glory is of extreme richness yet delicacy of detail.
Looking upwards and catching all the infinite combinations of arches and
angles--the bold piers resting on square outlines--the marvellous
cuttings and intersectings--the purity yet simplicity of design--the dim
religious light in which all is so mysteriously veiled--the few beams of
light cunningly admitted at the extreme summit--observing this, one is
lost in silent wonder. It seems almost as difficult to penetrate into
the beauty and mystery of this lantern as into heaven itself. And we ask
ourselves again and again if the world contains a more exquisite
dream-building than this.

Well do we remember the first time we saw this lantern and its imposing
accompaniment.

A state council was being held in the church. Immediately beneath it sat
the clergy; Bishop, Dean, and Canons in gorgeous vestments. One carried
a Cardinal's hat, whose thin inscrutable face reminded us a lit