mouldings and
ornamentation invited one to enter into silent, empty, but strangely
quaint rooms. As we looked, two women approached the wonderful old
fountain in the centre with its splendid carvings, and filled their
picturesque pitchers. The cloisters were in the hands of workmen. We
asked a reason, and found that a new tenant, objecting to the refined
atmosphere of time's lovely ravages, was scouring, cleaning, and
polishing up the general effect. One shed tears at the desecration.

[Illustration: SMALL CLOISTER OR PATIO: BARCELONA.]

Still nearer the cathedral is the Library, with its ancient picturesque
_patio_, and the most striking roof and staircase in Barcelona. The
library is rich in volumes and MSS., containing amongst much that is
interesting all the archives of the kingdom of Aragon. Amidst other
records will be found those of Catherine, who was bold enough to place
her hand--and head--at the disposal of Henry of England. The chief
librarian conducted us over the whole building, and most kindly and
patiently showed everything worthy of note, dwelling humorously upon
passages in records that in any way referred to Great Britain.

[Illustration: CLOISTERS OF SANTA ANNA: BARCELONA.]

In such an atmosphere we lost sight of the Barcelona of to-day. It
became ancient, ecclesiastical, historical, learned and romantic. Here
we returned to scenes and influences of the Middle Ages. And here,
within a narrow circle, this "Manchester of Spain" is one of the most
absorbing towns in the world.

But the ecclesiastical merit of Barcelona is not confined to the
cathedral. Though some of her best and most ancient churches have
disappeared, others remain. Amongst the foremost is Santa Maria del Mar,
taking rank after the mother church. A vast building, simple to a fault;
cold, formal and severe, though architecturally correct; the interior
hard and repelling, without sense of mystery or feeling of devotion. Yet
it has been much praised; even to comparison with the Cathedral of
Palma, and is said to be the work of the same architect; but Palma with
all its simplicity is full of dignity and grandeur. The west front of
Santa Maria is its best feature. The central doorway is fine, but the
rose window above is hard and German in tracery, therefore has little
beauty, and is of later date than the church.

Not far from here, in the narrowest of narrow streets, beyond an obscure
archway we found the small church of Santa Anna,