rched on a hill, outlined against the grey sky was the famous old
cathedral, rising upwards like a vision. Far down at the foot of the
hill ran the rapid river, winding through the country between deep
banks. A splendid old bridge added much to the impressive scene, about
which there was a wildness that seemed very much in harmony with the
grey and gloomy skies.

As we crossed the bridge outside the railway station, a young man, well
built, handsome, with a fresh colour and honest face, came up and
offered to bring us a carriage or personally conduct us to the hotel.
Few people visit Manresa; omnibuses are unknown, and carriages only come
out when ordered. We chose to walk, in spite of the rain, which was
coming down again with vengeance. The services of the guide were
accepted, and we soon found that he filled the important office of
general factotum to the hotel.

"Ah, senor," taking us into his confidence in the first five minutes,
"if you would only petition the padrone in my favour and get him to
promote me to the dining-room! As it is, I fetch and carry all day long
and scarcely earn money enough to pay for the boots I wear out."

We certainly thought no time was being lost in enlisting our sympathies,
and mildly suggested the padrone might not thank us for meddling with
his own affairs.

The streets were very steep, stony and winding. Water streamed from the
houses and ran down the hills, and the place altogether looked very
hope-forsaken, for it especially needed sunshine. Yet in spite of all we
found it very interesting, and its situation is so striking that it
could never be otherwise. We waded on and thought the rain would never
cease or the walk ever end.

At last the inn, which would hardly have been found without our guide.
He pointed to it with pride, but we could not rise to the sentiment.
The entrance was small, and we soon found ourselves mounting a narrow
wooden staircase which had neither the fashion of Barcelona nor the
dignity of Gerona. The first landing opened to a long low room of many
windows, looking old enough to have seen the birth and death of many a
century. This was given over to the servants of the house, and the
humbler folk whose rank entitled them to a place below the salt. They
were seated at round tables--but certainly were not knights--in
detachments of eight or ten, and their boisterous manners and loud
voices kept us at a respectful distance, without any desire for a nearer