e perfume, and the whole year
round brings a succession of fruits. In this lovely climate the earth is
abundantly productive. It is a land of corn and wine; the warm days of
winter more beautiful than those of summer.

Of Barcelona this is especially true. Its climate seemed more relaxing
than that of any other Spanish town. Even Valencia, so much farther
south, appeared less enervating. Long walks were out of the question.
All one could do was to hire one of the open carriages and drive lazily
about: a luxury obtained at a trifling cost. But vehicles and drivers
hardly seemed to share in the general prosperity; both appeared equally
shabby, worn-out and antediluvian. Their horses looked no less forlorn.

In the afternoons the Rambla was crowded with people, strolling to and
fro under the shadow of the trees. All the town seemed to close ledgers,
lock up counting-houses, and turn to the very innocent pleasure of
taking the air.

Ladies appeared with mantillas and fans; the younger women here as in
Madrid using a distinct language of fan and eye. Large, softly flashing
eyes, full of expression for the most part. H. C.'s susceptible heart
had no chance of repose. His dreams were feverish and disturbed by
night; his leisure moments by day devoted to love-sonnets. These lovely
ladies in their first youth are certainly very captivating and poetical;
and a slight touch of the voluptuous, _dolce far niente_ element is a
distinct characteristic of their subtle grace and charm.

In the afternoons, if the Rambla gained a charm it also lost one. The
flower-stalls disappeared with their picturesque and pretty
flower-sellers. Empty spaces remained, looking forlorn and neglected.
Great masses of blossom that delighted the eye and scented the early
morning were no more. Here the red and white camellias flourish in the
open air, but are by no means given away, as they were almost given away
in Valencia. Barcelona has its price for flowers as for everything else.

All this, the reader will say, belongs to the modern element. The
splendid outlines of Gerona; the old-world houses, with their ancient
ironwork and Gothic windows; the Anselmos, Rosalies, Delormais' of
Barcelona--where were they?

Conspicuous by their absence. With the exception of a few narrow
tortuous streets, Barcelona is essentially modern. Even these
picturesque thoroughfares are distinguished by discomfort, a shabby air,
and little beauty of outline. In the Rambla