till it is lost
in the groves of the Delta. The ports of Boulac and old Cairo, with
numerous villages, stud its banks, and from its bosom rise verdant
islands. To the left, the Nile is still visible, and beyond are seen the
Pyramids, which, though twelve miles off, appear quite close, from the
transparency of the air. In the citadel is also a mosque, now building
by the order of the Pasha. It is constructed of Oriental alabaster, is
of great size, already exhibits fine taste, and promises to be one of
the most beautiful structures in Egypt. But the Pasha has not yet
attained the European improvement of lamps in the streets. After
nightfall, the only light is from the shops, which, when they close,
leave the street in utter darkness. However, most of the pedestrians
carry lamps with them. How does it happen that no gas company has taken
pity upon this Egyptian darkness, and saved the Cairans from the chance
of having their throats cut, or at least their bones broken; for during
the summer a considerable portion of the poorer population sleep in the
streets? Still the Pasha is a man of taste, fond of living in gardens,
and sensible enough to have the garden of his favourite palace at
Shoobra laid out by a Scotch gardener. He used to reside a great deal
there, but now chiefly lives, when at Cairo, in the house of his
daughter, a widow, where his apartments are in the European style.
Nothing surprises a European traveller more than the people themselves;
and no problem can seem more mysterious than the means by which they are
enabled to supply so much expensive costume. The Egyptian gentleman
seems to want for nothing, wherever they find the money to pay for it.
Fine houses, fine furniture, fine horses, and fine clothes, seem to be
constantly at the command of a crowd who have nothing to do, who produce
nothing, and yet seem to have every thing. The Egyptian or Turkish lady
is an absolute bale of costly clothing--the more breadths of silk they
carry about them the better. Before leaving her home, she puts over her
house costume a large loose robe called a _tob_, made of silk or satin,
and always of some gay colour, pink, yellow, red, or violet. She next
puts on her face veil, a long strip of the finest white muslin, often
exquisitely embroidered. It is fastened just between the eyes, conceals
all the other features, and reaches to the feet. She next envelopes
herself in large cloak of rich black silk, tied round the head by a