once
wrought such formidable devastation. But the plain is bounded by verdant
mountains, looking down on a lovely extent of orange and olive groves,
vineyards, and cornfields. But the grand feature of the landscape, and
the world has nothing nobler, is the colossal Etna; its lower circle
covered with vegetation--its centre belted with forests--its summit
covered with snow--and, above all, a crown of cloud, which so often
turns into a cloud of flame. The travellers were fortunate in seeing
this showy city under its most showy aspect. It was a gala-day in
Catania; flags were flying on all sides--fireworks and illuminations
were preparing--an altar was erected on the Cave, and all the world were
in their holiday costume. As the evening approached the scene became
still more brilliant, for the fireworks and illuminations then began to
have their effect. The evening was soft and Italian, the air pure, and
the sky without a cloud. From the water, the scene was fantastically
beautiful; the huge altar erected on the shore, was now a blaze of
light; the range of buildings, as they ascended from the shore,
glittered like diamonds in the distance. Fireworks, in great abundance
and variety, flashed about; and instrumental bands filled the night air
with harmony. The equipages which filled the streets were in general
elegant, and lined with silk; the dresses of the principal inhabitants
were in the highest fashion, and all looked perfectly at their ease, and
some looked even splendid. A remark is made, that this display of wealth
is surprising in what must be regarded as a provincial town. But this
remark may be extended to the whole south of Italy. It is a matter of
real difficulty to conceive how the Italians contrive to keep up any
thing approaching to the appearance which they make, in their Corsos,
and on their feast-days. Without mines to support them, as the Spaniards
were once supported; without colonies to bring them wealth; without
manufactures, and without commerce, how they contrive to sustain a life
of utter indolence, yet, at the same time, of considerable display, is a
curious problem. It is true, that many of them have places at court, and
flourish on sinecures; it is equally true, that their manner of living
at home is generally penurious in the extreme; it is also true that
gaming, and other arts not an atom more respectable, are customary to
supply this yawning life. Yet still, how the majority can exist at all,
i